Tarte Flambee

Make Fromage Blanc (makes 2 c):

8 c whole milk, as fresh as possible

1 cup heavy cream (optional)

2 cups fresh buttermilk

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, strained

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon salt, if desired, plus optional herbs

Heavy Cream, for serving

In a large, heavy saucepan, add the milk (and cream for a richer fromage blanc.) In a mixing bowl, combine the buttermilk and lemon juice and stir to combine well. Add the buttermilk-lemon juice mixture to the milk and begin to heat the milk, over low heat and very slowly, to 175 degrees F. While the milk is heating, stir only twice, making 2 strokes each time, with a heat-proof spatula or other flat utensil. Check the temperature often. As soon as the temperature reaches 175 degrees F, remove the pot from the heat and allow to sit, undisturbed, for 10 minutes.

Line a large colander with 2 layers of fine cheesecloth and set over a large bowl. Gently ladle the curds and whey into the colander and allow to drain until the drips of whey slows, about 2 minutes. Tie the corners of the cheesecloth together to form a hanging pouch, and hang pouch over a bowl and allow to drain until the cheese reaches the desired consistency.

Serve as is, with preserves, honey or fresh fruit, or add salt or fresh herbs, to taste, and enjoy as a savory appetizer. If a rich cheese is desired, spoon or pour a bit of heavy cream over the top before serving. Also, if a very smooth product is desired, beat the cheese briefly with an electric mixer before serving. Refrigerate until ready to serve, up to 1 week. If cheese is marinated in oil with fresh herbs, it will keep, refrigerated, for up to 1 month.

Tarte Flambee:

12 ounces sliced bacon, cut crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces

4 (5 ounce) balls prepared pizza dough

1 large yellow onion, sliced

2 cup fromage blanc (French-style fresh cheese)

1/2 cup creme fraiche

1 pinch ground nutmeg

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Place bacon in a skillet and cook over medium-high heat until cooked but not crisp and fat has rendered out, about 8 minutes. Drain in a strainer; reserve fat.

Place skillet back over medium heat. Add sliced onions. Cook briefly just until they lose their raw edge and soften up slightly, 3 to 5 minutes. Add a teaspoon or 2 of bacon fat if the pan seems too dry. Remove the skillet from heat and allow to cool to room temperature.

Mix fromage blanc, crème fraîche, nutmeg, salt, and black pepper together in a mixing bowl.

Place 1 ball of pizza dough on a well-floured surface. Flatten and roll out to a 10- or 12-inch thin circle. Transfer to a cold cast iron pan. Heat over medium-high heat to precook the bottom of crust. As dough heats and bubbles appear, deflate them with the tines of a fork, so crust ends up thin and crisp (not chewy). When bottom is nicely browned and just about to start getting charred, 5 to 7 minutes, remove from heat. Repeat with remaining dough.

Spread a generous amount of cheese mixture over crust. Top evenly with some onions and bacon. Broil 5 or 6 minutes until edges are browned and starting to lift.