Project Plans

The Washington Irving

Finished Dimensions: 18” h x 22” w x 10” d

Have your bobbins ready with the different colored thread – Natural, green, green gray, and orange

1. CUT AND CREATE FRONT POCKET:

Finished size wants to be 10”h x 12” w, so cut (1) Headless Horseman and (1) Orange Chevron pieces to 11” x 13” to allow for .5” seam allowances. Sew black or orange piping to top edge now, because you won’t be sewing that top edge later. <Make sure you leave the piping out so you use the same one.> Front pocket will be tight like a jeans pocket under the straps you’ll eventually put on.

2. CUT OUT FRONT PANEL:

The top panel is meant to be 12 x 22, so cut (1) Headless Horseman 15” h x 34” w. This allows for sides (22” + 10” depth = 32” + 1” SA + 1” SA = 34”), a 1/2” turn at height, + another 2” turn to create top hem, + 1/2” seam allowance at bottom. (11” + .5” + 2” + .5” = 14”) Attach pocket in the middle, 1/4” from the bottom of the panel; stitch 1/4” around sides and bottom. The bottom will be stitched again, reinforcing it, when it is partially covered by the bias tape, so with the 1/2” SA and being raised 1/4 inch from the edge, the stitches should land approximately in the same place, it will reinforce the pocket, and this should only cut 1/4” into the pocket when you attach the accent piece.

3. CUT OUT ACCENT PIECE:

It is meant to be 6” x 22”. We have already determined the length including wide seam allowances widthwise is 34”. Seam allowances height wise should only be half an inch. Cut Orange Canvas pieces 7” x 34 for 1/2” SA top and bottom. Pipe the top edge of the accent piece (this will be the front), pin, and TOPSTITCH onto body piece. Make sure it’s totally straight; line everything up on the cutting board and trim the bottom edge of the body piece if necessary to make it even, so that you can lay the canvas piece on top and tack it on and check it against the lines again on the cutting mat to make sure it is straight.

4. ADD STRAPS:

So now you have the body with the biased pocket on it and the biased small canvas piece. Now it’s time to attack the handles. This must be done with the upmost of care. Measure carefully from each side along several places along the height to make sure that the strap is staying straight and covering the side edge of the pocket by a small margin. Arrange handles equidistant from edges and covering edges of pocket. Stop sewing 4” from top (you’re going to be turning that top) and leave a 1” tail past the bottom. Stitch on slowly and carefully, stitching over several times at top and bottom. Straps need to be about 65” apiece for crossbody, but check this.

5. CUT OUT CANVAS BOTTOM X 2:

It is meant to be 5” x 22”. We have already determined that the length including wide seam allowances WIDTH WISE is 34”. Seam allowances height wise should only be half an inch. Cut Orane Canvas pieces 6” x 34”. Attach to small canvas contrast piece, making sure 1” of the end of the straps are tucked AND SEWN INTO the seam. Sew back and forth over this several times to really secure it.

6. CREATE LARGE BACK PANEL POCKET:

Pocket is made from Headless Horseman and Pumpkin Patch fabric and is meant to be 11” x 22”, so cut pieces 12” x 34”. Sew together, leaving hand hole at top; close and sew on piping.

7. CUT TOP BACK PANEL:

(1) Headless Horseman, meant to be 8” x 22”, so cut to 11” x 34”.

8. SECOND PANEL:

(1) Orange canvas meant to be 10” x 22”, so cut to 13” x 34”. Sew onto body back. DO NOT ADD BIAS, DO NOT TOPSTITCH. This should just be a normal seam, and it’s going to be covered by the large pocket.

9. STRAPS:

Attach straps as you did before.

10. ATTACH LARGE BACK PANEL POCKET:

Lay 1” from bottom to allow for 1/2” SA on bottom piece, covering straps and the first and second seam. Tack pocket on really well, especially at the sides. Stitch on at bottom only.

11. ATTACH CONTRAST BOTTOM PIECE:

Make sure 1” of the end of the straps are tucked AND SEWN INTO the seam. Sew back and forth over this several times to tightly secure it.

12. TWO SEPARATE WAYS:

Now you have two similar pieces, except for the pockets. Turn them so the orange canvas bottom pieces are kissing, but the patterns are going in different directions, and join with a 1/2” seam. Trim away excess to reduce bulk beneath the lining in the finished bag. Now you should have one extremely long outside body piece, with straps and outside pockets, and a raw interior.

13. CONSTRUCT LINING:

It is meant to be 18” H x 22” W, and for the lining, you only need half inch SA around on three sides and an extra inch at the top for tucking after you turn the body top. Need 2 finished piece 18” x 22” = raw (18” + 1” top + .5” bottom = 19.5” high x 34 w x 2 = 68” wide.) 19.5” x 68”. I only have 42” w OVERLOOK cloth. So: 68” - 42” = 26” remaining. 26/2 = 13” per side for a total of (2) Orange pieces, 19” x 13”. Stitch onto the Overlook fabric. This will give you a 68” width. (42” + 13” + 13” = 68”.)

14. CREATE BACK INTERIOR POCKET:

Pocket is made from Teal Spooky Graveyard and Teal Spooky Night + Quilting. It is meant to be 11” x 12”, so cut pieces 12” x 13”. Fold down edges 1/2”; you are folding down the edge to create dimension and a lip. Sew piping on BACK SIDE ONLY. Lay on top of lining fabric on cutting pad and place towards the right, leaving room for the Frenching on the right. Sew onto lining.

15. WATER BOTTLE POCKET:

Headless Horseman Fabric + ditsy pumpkin + quilting. Pocket is meant to be 6” x 3”, but remember, for the water bottle pocket, there will be additional fabric you will need to scooch out a little bit to allow it to fit. You will have the edges of the pocket sewn 2.5” apart, but the piece of fabric will be five inches. This is to add depth to the pocket, so don’t forget. Cut 7x6 to end up with a piece that is 6 x 5 that will be scooched into 2.5”. Fold down edges 1/2”; you are folding down the edge to create dimension and a lip. Sew piping on BACK SIDE ONLY. Topstitch edges of pocket 2.5” inches apart on lining, sewing down into folded down edge.

16. SMALL INTERIOR POCKET:

Pocket is meant to be 6” x 6”, so cut 7” x 7”. Fold down edges 1/2”; you are folding down the edge to create dimension and a lip. Sew piping on BACK SIDE ONLY and sew onto lining like you did with the water bottle pocket.

17. FRONT INTERIOR DIVIDED POCKET:

Pocket is made from Antique Orange and Orange Chevron + quilting. The pocket is meant to be 12” x 18”, so cut 13” x 19”. Fold down edges 1/2”; you are folding down the edge to create dimension and a lip. Sew piping on BACK SIDE ONLY. Place and pin on lining; determine how you want the pocket divided, and sew onto lining.

18. POUCH:

Make the pouch with quilting and ribbon.

Stitch together lining, body, and pouch, French seaming up the sides. Box the corners.

Tote Bag Equation for French Seams:

Height = H + (D/2) + 2.5” (1.5” top hem + 1” bottom seam allowance)

Width = (2W) + (2D) + 2.5” (includes side allowance for pockets)